Your appliances
Check what you use, and adjust watts or hours if yours differ from the typical value shown.
Off-grid, RV & cabin
Check off the appliances actually running in your rig, adjust the watts and hours to match your gear, and get a daily watt-hour total ready for panel and battery sizing.
Check what you use, and adjust watts or hours if yours differ from the typical value shown.
How it works
Step 1
Twelve common RV appliances are pre-loaded with typical watts and hours. Uncheck anything you don't have or use.
Step 2
Preset wattages are a reasonable starting point, but your fridge, AC, or inverter may differ. Swap in the number from the appliance's spec sticker if you have it.
Step 3
Got gear not on the list, like an electric bike charger or a space heater? Add it with the custom entry, then pad the total by 10% for anything you're forgetting.
A boondocking RV with a 12V compressor fridge, LED lighting, a water pump, and basic electronics like a laptop and phone charging commonly lands between 1,200 and 2,000Wh a day. Adding a CPAP machine, satellite internet like Starlink, or regular use of high-draw appliances like a microwave or coffee maker can push the total to 2,000 to 3,000Wh, which is a meaningfully different solar and battery sizing target. The federal ITC calculator picks up where this leaves off, using the figure you just found.
It's tempting to worry most about your highest-wattage appliance, but total watt-hours depend on both watts and hours together. A 1,000-watt microwave used for 9 minutes a day only contributes 150Wh, while a 50-watt fridge running 8 hours straight contributes 400Wh, nearly three times as much despite a much lower peak wattage. This is why the fridge, not the microwave, usually drives the bulk of an RV's daily energy use.
Starlink's RV and roam-focused plans typically draw 40 to 75 watts while active. Left running most of a working day, that adds 400 to 750Wh, making it one of the largest single loads in many modern boondocking setups, on par with or exceeding the fridge. Builders adding satellite internet to an existing system should re-run their load and battery sizing rather than assuming the old numbers still hold. Real household consumption patterns, the kind EIA tracks in its residential energy survey, offer a useful sanity check against whatever total you land on here, even though an RV's load profile looks different from a house's.
Even a thorough appliance count tends to run a little low in practice, since actual usage hours drift and small forgotten devices add up. A 10% to 15% margin absorbs this without meaningfully oversizing the rest of the system, which is why it's built into this calculator as a default rather than an afterthought. the Department of Energy's Energy Saver guide covers the general method behind building in a margin like this.
Take the daily total straight into the RV solar wattage calculator and the RV battery bank sizing calculator, since both use this exact figure as their starting input. If your monthly electric bill from home is a more familiar reference point than a room-by-room count, the system size by monthly kWh usage tool in our system sizing tools works from that instead, and the federal ITC calculator in our rebates and incentives tools is worth checking if a larger load pushes your system size, and cost, meaningfully higher.
Questions
A typical boondocking RV with a 12V fridge, lights, water pump, and basic electronics uses 1,200 to 2,000Wh a day. Adding a CPAP machine, Starlink, or frequent microwave and coffee maker use can push that to 2,000 to 3,000Wh.
Yes, but their contribution is often smaller than people expect. A 1,000-watt microwave used for 9 minutes a day only adds 150Wh, far less than a fridge running 8 hours a day at 50 watts, which adds 400Wh.
Starlink's RV or roam plans typically draw 40 to 75 watts while active, and if left running most of the day, that adds 400 to 750Wh, making it one of the larger single loads in many modern RV setups.
A 10% to 15% margin is reasonable to account for appliances running slightly longer than planned or additional devices you forgot to include. This total then feeds directly into battery and solar sizing tools.