Battery & storage
Critical loads only sizing calculator
Check off the essentials you want backed up during an outage. Get a battery size built for just those circuits, not your whole home.
How it works
Three steps to sizing critical loads
Step 1
Check off what actually matters
Be honest about what you truly need during an outage. Skipping non-essentials like a full kitchen or central air keeps the battery size and cost down. See the whole home tool if you decide you want everything covered instead. The hybrid inverter sizing calculator checks whether your inverter can handle this result.
Step 2
Set your backup duration
Critical loads panels are usually sized for at least a full day of coverage. The 24 hour backup tool covers this specific duration if you want a dedicated breakdown.
Step 3
Confirm with an electrician
A critical loads subpanel needs to be professionally wired to physically separate these circuits from the rest of your panel. The battery inverter pairing tool helps confirm your inverter can support the subpanel design.
Understanding critical loads sizing
Why this number is an estimate, not a quote
This calculator uses typical running wattages for common critical loads, not your specific appliance models or their startup surge. Real critical loads panels also depend on which circuits your home's wiring makes easy or hard to isolate. Use this number to start a conversation with an installer, not as a final subpanel design. If you want to check a single appliance in more detail, the refrigerator backup tool and medical equipment tool both dig into individual loads.
Why critical loads only saves real money
A critical loads only system frequently needs a single battery under 15 kWh, while whole home backup covering central air conditioning often needs 2 to 3 batteries stacked together. Since batteries are the single largest line item in most backup systems, narrowing your load list down to genuine essentials can cut total system cost substantially, consistent with cost breakdowns published by NREL's residential storage cost benchmarking. The cost per kWh comparison tool shows what that difference looks like in dollars.
What usually makes the critical loads list and what doesn't
Refrigerators, some lighting circuits, internet and networking gear, and any medical or safety devices are the most common inclusions, since losing any of these during an outage causes real problems within hours. Full kitchens, laundry machines, and central HVAC usually get left off a critical loads panel specifically because they draw enough power to force a much larger and more expensive battery system. The HVAC backup tool covers what it takes to add climate control back into the mix.
Why the subpanel matters as much as the battery
A battery and inverter can only back up the circuits that are physically wired into a dedicated critical loads subpanel, a distinction the Department of Energy's inverter basics guide covers as part of how backup-capable systems are wired. This is a licensed electrical job separate from the battery installation itself, and it is what makes selective backup possible instead of an all-or-nothing whole panel transfer switch. The hybrid inverter sizing calculator in our Inverters & Equipment category covers the inverter side of this same subpanel setup. Confirm subpanel scope with your installer before finalizing a battery size.
What to do with this number next
Once you know your critical loads battery size, check the solar recharge sizing tool to see how solar changes your outage math, or the battery expansion planning tool if you might add more circuits down the line. If financing this smaller system is the goal, the quick financing comparison tool in our Financing category gives a fast cost overview.
Questions
Frequently asked
Most critical loads circuits draw 400 to 600 watts combined and need under 15 kWh of battery for a full day of backup. A typical critical loads list of fridge, lighting, internet, and small electronics at 480 watts needs about 13.9 kWh of nameplate capacity for 24 hours.
Critical loads typically include the refrigerator, some lighting circuits, internet and networking equipment, and any medical or safety devices. Nice-to-have loads like a full kitchen, washer and dryer, or central air conditioning usually get excluded to keep the battery size and cost down.
Yes, in almost all residential installations. A licensed electrician wires a small subpanel that isolates just your chosen circuits, since the battery and inverter physically cannot tell which loads on a shared panel matter more than others.
Yes, most installers leave some spare capacity in the subpanel for this reason, though adding significant load like HVAC later usually requires a larger battery and possibly a second unit. The battery expansion planning tool covers what adding capacity later looks like.
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